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Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Calamba, Laguna: Keeper of the Memories of Jose Rizal



Calamba is a peaceful, moderately large city in Laguna, a province in the southern part of Manila which is famous for being the birthplace of our national hero. When newcomers reach the town proper, this giant earthen pot, sitting atop a cave-like structure is what greets them. Some words are scribbled on the body of the pot, these are the names of the barangays in Calamba and unlike other similar markers in Manila, the surrounding areas here do not smell remotely of excreted human fluid.




A mythical character named Mariang Makiling in Laguna is fabled to be protecting the dense forest of the mountain in Laguna called Mount Makiling. This is a small statue of the mythical character inside the cave-like structure.



To get a better view of the pueblo, the Spanish term for town proper, visitors can come up and walk around (you can memorize the places, while doing this...:-)) or just take in the fresher atmosphere.



Adjacent to the town marker is the biggest keepsake of our national hero Jose Rizal, the house where he spent his childhood and young adulthood. The house that shaped our national hero, in short. It also stores the other keepsakes of Jose Rizal to us, his countrymen. It fell into a state of disrepair but with the help of many, was restored and turned into a museum. Hundreds of thousands of students come every year in order to see what Rizal was like as a growing child and young adult and how he effected the KKK and the Philippine Revolution in 1898.



The family of Rizal was considered elite during that period. Being a family of merchants, they have the means to buy what are considered "high-tech" or latest models of goods during that period. This could have been one of them. The family vehicle was this "karossa."



A mounted lifesize photo of young Pepe welcomes visitors into the house which has been turned into a museum. In this area of the former Rizal abode, are chronicles of the life of Rizal framed along the concrete walls.



This staircase made of hardwood leads to the rooms of the masters of the house and their children: 2 males and 9 females. Before going up the grand stairs, you need to register and make a donation, of any amount, for the upkeep of this historical site.



This particularly caught my attention and probably one of the most interesting features of 17th century homes. This is what was used by the wealthier families in driving away insects from the dining table. I can only conclude one thing: Rizal's helpers probably have well-toned arm muscles.



Their version of present day's 'dirty kitchen.' Some utensils or kitchen materials made use of the ubiquitous coconut shell.



A miniature of Jose Rizal's house is displayed in the museum just behind the main house. Other items used by Jose Rizal are also displayed here and a video presentation may also be played if guests request it.



The national hero's bust made of bronze would make a good centerpiece in my house. If only it were not heavy.



Outside the home, in the wide lawn under tall fruit-bearing trees stands a small nipa hut where Jose Rizal would spend his leisure time. Guests would find trees such as anonas, makopa, balimbing, santol, nangka among the variety of trees planted here.




The back facade of the house. From here, a staircase takes guests to the wide lawn where fresh fruits can be picked from trees. There isn't a "no picking" sign, so guests are free to taste the fruits around the area, but not to fill their bags with them.

How to get here:

Ride an HM Transport bus that goes to UP College at Los Banos and get off at Calamba. You will be dropped off at the highway so you need to take a jeepney or walk towards the town proper.

HM Transport is located along EDSA, across NEPA Q-mart.

The bus fare is less than a P100; additional fare would be the jeepney going to the town proper, that is if you opt to commute than walk.

Monday, September 21, 2009

When Gods Descend upon the Ruins of Talisay



Almost midway from Silay City to Bacolod, is a secret kept for over 50 years. In a clearing in the middle of a wide sugarcane plantation stands the remains of the old mansion of the sugar baron Don Mariano Ledesma Lacson. It was abandoned after the American forces during WW2 burned it down so that Japanese Imperial army could not camp in it. It was a secret well-kept and was partially restored and opened to the public only last year (one of the gods must have whispered to the local officials to share this to the visitors of the town).




Built by the sugar baron for his unmarried children and his wife, Maria Braga, who was a Portuguese from the Macau peninsula, the Ruins is inspired by Italianate and Romanesque architecture which was the fashion in Europe at that period.



The structure remained grandiose and majestic despite the ravages of war and the inferno due to the oversized steel bars and the good quality of concrete that was used in the construction. It is believed that it took two days for the entire flooring of the former mansion to totally become ashes because of the good lumber that was used.



Portraits of the clan patriarch and matriarch are hung on the mansion walls as courtesy and respect for their ownership of this majestic structure.



The side portal opens out to a courtyard, or fountain. One can just imagine the 'royal family' of Talisay entertaining their guests in the wide, open lawn.



The best time to come and enjoy the beauty of the Ruins is before nightfall as the setting sun casts a dramatic reflection against the walls of the old mansion. It is as if the skies have opened up and the gods are descending upon the Ruins.

How to get here:



From Silay Airport, you may take the mini-buses that ply the route going to Bacolod and get off at Bata, where a sign gives instructions to the Ruins. You will find tricycles near a residential area and they are ready, waiting and able to take you there. Half of the way is unpaved and bumpy, you'd think you are in the Rialto but be patient because the breathtaking beauty that await you is worth the bumpy ride.

Entrance to the Ruins is P50.00. You may also want to give monetary gratuity to the guides around the Ruins who are so hospitable and gracious.

Silay City: Vigan of the South and Paris of Negros


While enjoying my breakfast of adobong baboy and hot beef soup in Mam and Sir Diner located along the high way in Silay City, I noticed that most of the people around me were mestizas and mestizos so the curiouser I got about the history, not only of Silay but also of Negros Occidental.

Silay City is also known as the Paris of Negros because of the well-preserved old haciendas, about 30 of them, that provide a glimpse of life back when it was the leading sugar-producer in the country, examples of these are the Balay Negrense and the Bernardino-Ysabel Jalandoni Home which have been turned into museums for guests to appreciate the history and the culture of the town especially during when hacienderos were the leading figures of society.



The Balay Negrense boasts of memorabilia and architectural features dating back 1897 when it was built by Victor F. Gaston, son of Yves Leopold Germain Gaston, a Frenchman who married a Batanguena and later on relocated to Negros. Balay Negrense was officially inaugurated as museum by the Department of Tourism in 1990.




If you want to see a real Stradivarius violin, that world-renowned and rare brand of this stringed instrument, then you should visit the Bernardino-Jalandoni Museum. A glass-encased of probably the only one of its kind in the Philippines is one of the major collection of this museum which houses the furniture and century-old memorabilia of the Ysabel Jalandoni and Bernardino clan.



Touring inside the ancestral homes of the "royal families" of Silay, enriched my knowledge of the history of this town which was declared museum city next to Vigan of Ilocos. It also made me appreciate the legacy of the old-families and thankful for keeping and opening their homes so that the coming generations will be able to vicariously experience the golden days of the hacienderos.

How to get here:


By Air:

Cebu Pacific Air and Philippine Airlines have scheduled flights to Bacolod City, but actually, it should be Silay City (considering that the airport is in Silay). You may check flight schedules at:

http://www.cebupacificair.com/
http://www.philippineairlines.com/home/home.jsp

By Ship:

http://www.superferry.com.ph/

photo from: heritageconservation

Monday, September 14, 2009

Can't Stop Smiling in the City of Smiles: Bacolod City



Bacolod is the City of Smiles and a place that I would always associate with sugarcane (I did see oceans of them) and the famous Maskarra festival. Incidentally, it is the Maskarra month so the city is probably experiencing a shortage in hotel rooms now (it was a good thing for us to have come before visitors started arriving to witness the annual festivity). Thanks to Cebu Pacific's travel promo, coming to Bacolod became really, really affordable for just the sum of P600. (Enough reason to smile, indeed)



One look at the newly-opened Bacolod-Silay International Airport, which is just over 30 minutes away from Bacolod City, and you'd be smiling again. A sprawling structure of modernity, this airport is already something that each Negrense ought to be proud of. Arrivals and departures were easy as "napoleones" pies.



One of the never to miss experiences is the chicken inasal at Manukan Country. It is inasal at its best, native chicken without the tons of seasoning in chicken that we would see in chicken inasal served in Manila. (More articles on Bacolod and Silay coming up)